Mexico burning roads

Thursday, 7th of july

Early morning departure for Mexico, Bahia de Los Angeles. We hit the road at 4am and I fell asleep right away... didn´t see anything of the road until we got to the border. We pass with no problem following the bus of students that are heading down to Bahia de Los Angeles for two weeks of summer class.
The USA side of the border is already mixed. We drive by the biggest line of car in the world. Kilometers of cars waiting on passing the border to go work in USA, hours of waiting... to get closer to the "American dream".
Desertic landscapes, square colourfull houses with concrete roof, giangantic Jesus Christ, fish tacos and dirt everywhere, no shade. We crossed "forest" of cactus. The colors are ocre, and the sunset light soften it all and turn the hot environment into a beauty... We arrived in Bahia de Los Angeles after the sunset... there is still some light and I can see the Sea of Cortez. The island of the bay are amazing, like flooded mountains, the surprise is breathtaking...

My little house by the beach is cute and confortable, I sleep under the stars with the view on the islands.
I wake up with the sun slowly coming out of the horizon behind the island, swim with shark whales, see bottle nose dolphins, almost touch them, snorkle on a white granite sandy beach, turquoise water with a desertic mountain on the background, boat trip to the islands and more shark whales, rays jumping out of the water...

Tuesday 12th of july. I decided to hitch hike south to go surf. A little over 1000 km to get to Cabos from where I start, in the middle of nowhere, in the desert. The morning is fresh and I even feel cold. I set up a confortable place to hitch hike, an use tire where I sit or lay in. I quickly figured out which car will take me and my surfboard... not much. Trucks won't take me and small cars neither. I start to read to no get impatient. The pages goes and goes and still no car... I start to worry but it will be ok, shouldn't be that late... A car finally pull up. A mexican man, going to the next town, 130 km away... well it´s a start. We exchange some word. He used to live in USA and work there but didn´t like it. So he moved back to Mexico, with less work but he could enjoy life better. Time went by since Jose dropped me off at 6am. It is 1pm when Juan drop me off where I can have the most luck. It touch me, and straighten my feeling that we are all one in this world... I gave him two oranges and I took a picture of him...
Realizing how much more I have to hitch hike, I get on my feet and stood for 5 hours before I decide to catch the bus. Hitch hiking is not my thing... I don´t have time to do it, I rather go surf than spend time on the road... The bus ride was just perfect. I enter and sat on the front row, paid 1000 pesos (around 90 USD). I was full of dust and never felt so wrecked before... I fell asleep as I felt better and in security knowing where I was going. Hitch hiking is definitively out of my wish list... It was a great experience though and don´t regret anything, laughing about it. The bus arrive in La Paz around 5am the next day. I had a good sleep and the bus driver helped me around.. I guess I really looked wrecked !! haha.. I bought my ticket to San Jose del cabo and jump in the next bus. Sun rise thru a foggy desert, mango trees here and there, waves hitting the shore... I´m getting closer to my goal.
I try to get off the bus on the first surf beach I see but I have to ride it all the way to the terminal. I get off, find a rental car and drive to the beach. Nice waves but it´s so hot, unbearable... The session was good, I had a lot of fun. I came out after may be 5 hours and new that I was sun burned. I went to the panoramic site to look at the surf from above and just chill. Drove around town to find water, food and internet. I´m planning on sleeping in my car. I meet a mexicain men, Roberto, at the panoramic, he is a handcrafter, painting on shells and selling it to tourists. Even though I´m not interested he comes back to me and we start to talk. He is from mainland and lives between Ensenada and Los Cabos to work. The season haven´t been very good for him but he offers me a painted shell before he leaves and tells me to take care... Right after his departure, a young man ask me about renting board. His girlfriend speaks french to him so I start to speak to her. Nadia and Ismael, they are maroccan but lives between San Francisco and Vancouver since a couple years. We talked about my travels and and we ended up swimming at the beach together under the moon light. They invite me to their hotel so I can take a shower. We swim at the pool, slide ride and jacuzzi. They insist on having me sleepin on their couch and I accept. It was such a nice evening, getting to know their beautiful love story. I felt blessed being with them and meeting them. They made me feel like I was part of their family for the time spent with them... I slept like a rock exhausted from the great day I just had.
I woke up around 8.30 and drove to the airport to figure out a better deal for a renting car. I decide to keep the one I have and come back to the beach. I sat by a wall full of vine, the only shady place I found. I fell asleep there and wake up hours later... It felt very good. A surfer walk by and ask me if the nap was good. I smile.I watch the kids skimmimg and the surfer. I decide to not surf as it was too crowded and drive to town to find a place to stay... may be there is a cheap room for rent. Internet search, I buy my ticket back to Seattle for the 18th and I ended up in a room at a hostel in the center. 250 pesos (around 21 USD) not the cheapest but I can do it. It felt so good to have a room, a shower and I fell asleep right away in peace.

I went to check the waves when I woke up and it was perfect. Cloudy and no wind. I surf a new spot and get out of the water around 3pm... even more sunburned but I can´t do anything about it.

I met the locals surfers and Spencer from Los Angeles. He went to Tahiti and Huahine many times and kept a good memory about his trip. He invite me to stay at his place, in a trailer but I feel like going back to the hostel, just need to be alone, I enjoy quiteness and having somewhere I can call my room... I miss having a place... It has its cost but it's worth it as it makes me happy...

Love

Poema

Here come the sun little darling....

It's funny how better I feel in the sun, never realized until this second world trip... well I guess Ben Harper song was written for me "she's only happy in the sun" ;-)... The week-end with my sister in Tacoma was really nice, beautiful weather. The area is really green and all the island make it even more special, cliffs and long beaches, 5 miles park where you can walk thru the forest and see begging racoon on the side of the road. I spent the first part of the 4th of july there and celebrate Henry's 1st B-day. I never saw as many american flags as seen in their garden. They had more flags than the whole neighborhood all together... hahaha, so funny...
I flew to Burbank and Frank sister, Bernadette pick me up at the airport... I was thinking about sleeping at the airport but didn't know that it was a VERY small airport... Wouldn't have been a good plan to do that there and I was pretty stocked to see Bernadette and have a room at her place. The next day, Janice pick me up. Janice is Frank 's friend and she is going to Baja Mexico for two weeks tomorrow. Frank hooked me up with her and now I'm set for a nice trip.... She is so much fun and her son nicely told me that I look like a tahitian girl... Well I'm glad still I do... :-)

I'm going to have a swim in our pool and grab some orange from the tree for lunch.......

Bisous

Poema

On my way to the sun...

It's been two months and a half since I got embarked on Pangea in Ventura, lots of waters and winds came thru my life. Hard work have been done by the boys to get her up for sailing and of course Martin knowledge made the most of it. I did most of the cooking and little work on the wood... yep I guess I wasn't really ready for such a huge job and so much responsabilities in my world trip scheddule... I should have thought about all this before but I couldn't... I had to experience it to realize it... life is my school... and I have no regret and take it as a challenge. My sailing dream is to come true with a lot of patience and hard work.

I met people that were in my heart and that I haven't seen for over 16 years. I finally got to meet them during my trip here in Washington and Canada. First, Camille, a boy I met when I was about 11 years old, on a beach in Moorea. He sailed to French Polynesia with his parents and made me dream of sailing escapes... I found him the day he got married and met him the next day... it was like seing a brother, I helped his lovely wife Elise to put her dress away and watched Camille favorite you tube videos and their wedding pictures with them. It was a special moment for me.
Then Sophie, my sister. The last time I've seen her was when I was around 13 years old I think. It feels great to spend time with her, Martin, her husband and her beautiful family. She has a gourgeous red hair 7 years old daughter and a one year red hair baby boy. I'm enjoying their company and love. It is an important part of my journey to finaly see her again after so many years of silence...

I am on the road again for the next two weeks, flying down to Los Angeles for a road trip to Baja Mexico with Frank Murphy's friends... I needed some sun and warm water to fill up in positive energy...

Life is funny and has always some magic moment to cheer me up and help me find my way. I needed some time away from Pangea and everything felt into places, like it used to be when everything was meant to be.
As you must have understood, this journey around the world is not a simple trip to see places and visit whatever should be seen in the world... to me it is a journey thru myself, to find what's burried inside me and understand what my heart tells me... and it hurts sometimes...

Love

Poema

Pangea and her crew...

The story : While on Hanse, an afternoon in Antarctica I was talking about my sailing dreams to Martin and we had a similar one which was to sail across the Pacific. I was kind of planning on doing it at the end of my world trip. We started dreaming together about it, and buying a good size sailboat together with some of Hanse's crew would be nice. The idea already went around during some conversation in the past but never came true. In Ushuaia, Martin found several boats online. He contacted few of the owners and had a long chat with Pangea's owner... Two weeks later, everything fell into places perfectly and it was just our faith to get her sailing. We finally ended up buying it together with Martin as the other crew didn't really felt like following the crazy project.
The crew : Martin, 38, from Germany, lives in South of France, works as a captain on Hanse Explorer. He sailed a lot since he is a kid, help his dad building sailboats and owned several smaller sailboats, loves epoxy and sopalin. Patrick, an editor from Paris, in his 50s, just published a book about and for the Elysée.. loves Clint Eastwood and is always surprised to see the size of the american cars. He is the bosun on Pangea. Thibault, in his early 30s, first time in USA like Patrick. He sailed alot with his dad in the Mediterranée but he has strong sea sickness. He can't beleive how jeans and shoes can be so cheap in USA. He is the deck hand and my shopping assistant. Then myself... never owned a sailboat but always dreamed to....

The route : Pangea was parked for years in Ventura, went out couple of time to the island with her previous owner, Mickeal. The idea came from Martin to sail up to Vancouver island, one of his dream, with Pangea. It would have been  a trip against the wind but we could figured out what needed to be fixed before the big Pacific trip to French Polynesia. To me it would have been the opportunity to learn how to sail and get use to her. Canada sounded like a sweet destination too... and I have a very old friend I'll be happy to see in Vancouver, Camille. I met him when I was 13, on a beach in Moorea. He sailed with his parents in French Polynesia and promised me he would come back... he never did so it would be cool to show up there on my sailboat... My sister lives in Seattle, another good reason for me to go there...

And there we went...

Wednesday 11th of may
After alsmost a month of hard word and uneasy human adaptation living on a boat for me, meeting great people that became our friends, several departure parties, we finally left Ventura around 3pm towards the north. Sails out, waving to our friend Damien, there we went leaded by dolphins... Night watch for Martin and I, Thibault and Patrick didn't handle the PAcific swell.... I loved the feeling and remember my time on Fetia Ura, a 33m schooner I worked on in Moorea, my first job.
On thursday 12th after a quiet morning, the north wind came up and we tried to go against it to head Moro bay but seeing that the crew were feeling too bad, Martin decided to anchor at San Luis Obispo Bay. We stayed here for two nights and tried to fix some leakage and watertight the boat better.

Tonight, 11.20pm, we are leaving San Luis Obispo trying to reach San Francisco in two days with the south wind...

POema

Pangea into my life...

April 17th...

Train ride from Ventura to San Diego... flowery rail racks, bright golden flower carpet everywhere.... waves breaking down the cliff... purple grass... sun is caressing my face... stolen moments in a drawing book... cliché from my memories of train worker came to life... arrived on Pangea on the 13th... she is a beauty... last days in Brazil were amazing, enjoying warm weather, deep ocean colored pool, surf on the Love beach, laughs with my uncle, princess room... trip to Florida to wrap up my last belongings at Noah's mom.. two beautiful days spent with him... plane ride to California, surprise meeting at the airport with the crew, Martin, Patrick and Thibault... night at Micheal and Karry, the ex-owner of Pangea... walk on the Californian beach... guys running to the ocean... laughs smiles dreams... living all together on Pangea... pasta night... pelican dives... fishes playing water music... love her... she's part of me now... a dream came true... I feel like I'm living so many life... feel so blessed and magically spelled... time for myself tonight in San Diego... harbour side, stretch of beach in front of our bungalow... a mega yatch catching everybody's attention... beautiful music in a peaceful place... I'm going back to surfing slowly, the ocean is calling for me... enjoying the ride... Love to you all...

Poema

South America... part 2

Saturday March 5th 2011-03-14

Last day onboard Hanse Explorer… bags all over the corridors, excitement vibes floating in the air, but sadness also… 6 of the crew members were leaving today, I was leaving my « new home » not knowing when I’ll be back, leaving my  new family not knowing when I’ll see them again… adresses exanges, hugs, kisses, tears… laughs… we all left around 1pm… tears ran down my face while looking back at Hanse… it was the end of an incredible adventure… 

 Last hugss to my crewmates, Jens, Yurri, Luis, Ismail, Jérome… last minutes with Martin until we meet again in april… and there he left looking back…

I was on the road again but had a meeting with Noah who was in Rio since two weeks to study Brazilian Jui Jitsu.  Walked out the marina gate,  the sight of a plumeria tree made me smile and I ran to the tree to grab a flower while the driver was loading my luggages in the car… Long white beaches, old buidings on the other side, the Christ watching over us… sugar loaf, tunnels, and carnivalers walking down the streets here and there… the clouds and rain keep the crowd in. Noah was standing in front of the Coppacabana Palace hotel entrance. I was happy to see him after such a long time.  We walked around the city street looking for an internet café but most of the shops were clotsed due to carnival. Four days of holidays for the town… Hotels, backpackers were outragiously expensive and I decided to rent a room where Noah was staying, 30 USD a night, not cheap but it was the best deal I could find. A nice room at the end of a street with green vegetation walls as a view… peaceful… I fell asleep at 4 pm and had my deepest night since Rapa Nui…

Sunday March 6th 2011

I woke up early well rested and went on internet to figure out a plan for my holiday in South America,  where to go, how to get there… I worked on it the whole day, ran out to buy some fruits down the street.  Late afternoon, it was time for me to get out and see the town. It looked so dead, everything closed… people started to come out around 6pm, the party was on… we walked in Copacabana, streets parties, packs here and there… I felt tired and wanted to go to sleep. We walked all the way to the end of the beach, there we talked while waiting for a friend. Didn’t meet the friend and we walked back to the appartment.

Monday March 7th 2011

I had to get out of Rio and start my trip… We took the bus to Rodoviara, we saw the carnival chars, and the other side of Rio, house hanging on mountain like I never seen before, I don’t know how they hold. Red bricks buildings, people dancing in the streets, drinking at the bar, it was like a ride in their everyday life. When we arrive at the bus station a man helped us and guided us to the Terminal. He was so nice and I hug him when he left. I couldn’t beleive how the terminal looked like. What a contrast with outside. A big modern terminal like any other ones in USA or Europe. Clean, organized, new… I was undecided between going to Florianopolis and Bolivia… I walked in circle for an hour or two and finally bought my ticket to Bolivia. I met an Irish couple, they were going to Campo grande. They remind me of Noah and I world trip.

Back in Copacabana at the appartment. I tried to organise my trip to visit my uncle in the north of Brazil, I had to find specifics flight at a specific dates because he lives in a very isolated place and we had to be in the same plane… 3 hours away from any town, no phone… I had another meeting with Djepa, the friend I was suppose to meet the night before but we could get in touch. Noah and I took the bus to see where the street carnival were. We ended up going all the way back to the bus station missing our stop. A man pooped in the bus we entered to go back in Copacabana… a lady that works for the bus company cleaned it. Half way to town we saw the street we were looking for, got out of the bus and walked in the crowd… the show seemed to be over but there were still some groups ready to walk down the avenue and share their rythm. Simply dressed in uniforms, an orchestra and a crying giant speaker. The orchestra start to play samba, it was amazing, I could feel it all the way in my body, my heart, my guts, I couldn’t stop smiling… we walked thru the crowd, watch them… what a great experience… a little girl was dressed like a carnival queen and was dancing on the top of the car, she had the rythm in her skin, loved the music, enjoying the party with her grand da who was playing saxophone…

We left around 10 and went back to the appartment. While going thru my belongings I find out that I accidently throw away my swiss knife, a present I received from a very good friend. It stressed me for a little while and I decide to repack everything to have less bags, a throw away what I didn’t need. It’s really an exercise and my goal is to have just what I need by july… live as simply as I can without being extreme… I got a bag out of my way and I was very happy… but still not enough… it will come and I will get lighter during my trip.

Tuesday march 8th

Departure day, woke up at 8, got ready and went to Rodoviaria with Noah. He was leaving town at night time to go back to Florida too. I walked down to the bus walk way with tears. I felt so sad that day… The bus was impressively clean and comfi. We were 4 passengers, Elisabeth, her dad Antonio and her mom Marilene. I fell asleep 10 minutes after our departure and woke up in San Paolo. A man sat by me, he smelled like alcohol a  little bit. His name was Mauricio, he studies plastic surgery but can’t afford it in Brazil so he decided to go to Bolivia… Elisabeth and I told ourself that we will definitively not have him as our surgeon… just didn’t feel it J We stopped at different road services and again I was very surprised, large one floor restaurant/grocery store/bakery building, very clean, like new, with toilets and showers, just like in USA if not better… I bought some fruits and relaxed quietly outside.

I slept well even though my neighbour was a little too close sometimes. I ended up giving him my Pareo/sheet as he invited himself to share it with me. He was such a character, the only one we could hear in the whole bus… he stopped talking when he fell asleep.

Wednesday, march 9th

Woke up because of my neighbour and couldn’t fall asleep because he was too loud. I tried to listen to music and invited him to so he could be quiet for a little while…

Outside, flat green spaces, floaded, brown water running thru it, cows on the road, mirror for the sky here and there in the bush…. Peaceful sight… what animals are living in this forest, could I live here, is there any snakes, familiar trees, tropical vegetation… bananas for sale…

1200 house to be built, we were getting closer to the frontier… mountains grew in the horizon, houses and villages with junk wards… an uninviting border town. We cross the frontier without stopping at the immigration and the bus left us on the Bolivian side of the border. We grabbed our bags, I changed some money.  It was hot, very hot and humid, mosquitoes everywhere. I spread myself with some mosquitoes repelent, not wishing to catch malaria or dengue… Elisabeth and her parents wanted to go to the bus station without stamping their passport. I said goodbye and wishing to see them again. I didn’t know how this worked for brazilian but I knew I had to get stamped. I walked to the brazilian border and stand in queue. Around 50 persons were waiting for the immigration officer to come back from their break.  I couldn’t beleive how easy you can get in Bolivia, if you ever need to run away and hide, I’ll come here. It reminds me of my trip to Combodia, crossing the frontier, a river that seperate the two countries.

An hour later I had my passport stamped, people were very nice.  In the small bolivian immigration office, I met a french girl, Roxanne, she was from Normandie and was living in the frontier with her Bolivian boyfriend. She was working in their shop selling basic groceries and beer. She seemed happy about her life here, but missed her family and was planning on going back to France in july.

I was wondering how I would get to the bus station, I don’t like taking taxis alone and I was wishing I could find someone to share it with.

Elisabeth appeared in the bolivian office with her parents, a bit in panic. They had to get stamps too and catch the bus an  hour later. Her dad  told me to wait for them and we would all go together. I was happy to see them again. Her dad was so concerned about me and really wanted me to stay with them. We jumped in the first taxi we saw, it was filled with mosquitoes, I couldn’t beleive it ! 5 minutes away, the bus station, open groceries and fruits stores along the road. The taxi dropped us off in front of one of the door. I went in to get a ticket for the same bus as Elisabeth and her family.

« There is no more seat available but you can be in the bus standing until San Jose where you will be able to have a seat » the girl at the counter said… well I had to go, I wasn’t gonna spend the night in this  malaria/dengue nest… I bought my ticket for 70 bol. There were about 10 buses company going mainly to Santa Cruz… hopefully my bus will be secure enough, it will be the surprise. I bought some water, it was so hot, I was sweating and wishing for a shower… I finally got a seat but had to change number in San jose, everything was good. Most of the brazilian bus passengers were in our bolivian bus. One of them was Denis, a very nice bolivian gentleman, studying sociology. He could speak english and he was the translator whenever Elisabeth couldn’t explain me what she wanted to tell me. He was really helpful and took good care of me. I sat on the window side and 3 young girls sat in front and one by me, Ramona. They were in their 20, really cute.

Dirt roads and concrete block houses here and there, like in Bali, basic shops with four walls, a concrete roof and a window door. We slowly got of the town, green bushy lands, cow poo smells… houses here and there… orange clouds lighten by sunset, far away a grey cloud was lightenning. I missed it. In Antarctica there is no lightenning. Stars shyly started to shine and sparks in the dark bleu orange sky… I wish it wasn’t smelling cow poo so much… I fell asleep.

Childrens voice yelling woke me up… we were in a small town where buses stop for dinner. Kids were running along the bus with bags full of lemon «  Bolivian limon, Bolivian limon », they were yelling, some jumped in the bus when we stopped. They looked like they were happy doing it all together, almost like a game to them,  boys mainly . 5 bolivinas for a bag, what a deal.  I wanted to buy some orange and a girl had some. I didn’t have change. I gave her a 20 bol bill with hesitation, but she asked me with such a honest voice and attitude that I felt like I could trust her. She ran away and I was wondering if she would come back… she did and that made me feel comfortable. Kids are the reflection of a society. A little shy girl was selling her lemon with her grand ma, she was so cute, we exchange smiles. I was the only tourist in the bus and nobody were hassling me like it would happen in other poor countries I visited. I bought a bag of goyava for 1 bol and shared it with my bus neighbour. We became a group and started to talk. I don’t speak spanish, I understand it more but I can communitcate what I want with signs, some words and energy I guess… I gave them a english lesson while driving away of the lemon town, they were so excited. I noticed that sharing language knowledge is one of the best way to bond with people. It happened to me in Morrocco where I started to learn arabic with a grocery seller, it was such a beautiful exchange. Here again, with my three new friends. They offered me some flashing multicolored gadget at the end of the lesson, I couldn’t beleive it,  I felt so happy not because of the present itself but because of the friendship and this special bond we created.

We fell asleep all together and woke up in Santa Cruz. Elisabeth, her parents and Denis were outside waiting for me. Ramona and her cousins made sure I was ok before they left. Hugs, smiles and kisses… I walked in the bus station with Elisabeth and the group. It was the end of their bus trip. Her brother was going to come picked them up. He is married to a Bolivian girl and they live here. Elisabeth and her parents took 10 days of holidays to visit him.

I said goodbye and we exchanged emails, promise we wiil meet again in Rio…

Walking to the one of the bus counter I saw a young backpacker busy doing earrings and selling some of them. He caught my attention, probably because he was the first backpacker I saw since I start my South American trip. I bought my ticket to La Paz , I sat down with him and we started to talk. He looked so much like my cousin, I couldn’t beleive it. His travel companion appeared behind me, Fernanda, an argentinian girl, full of life, beautiful… He is from Peru, in the amazonian forest. We quickly felt comfortable and they invited me to go to Cochabamba with them. Why not ! I had nothing to rush to La Paz. I changed my ticket and we were all set for a departure at 7.30pm. We spent the day together, I took a cold shower in the public shower, clean spaces were I could enjoy this so waited shower.  I checked my emails, and then went for a walk outside. It was hot ,crowded… small shoppes everywhere, pharmacy every 5 meters… I never saw as many pharmacies as in South America, it’s quite impressive…. 

Bus ride to Cocahbamba… we would spend our night in the bus crossing the Andes… the temperature went down, I woke up and saw the scorpio constellation… « happy birthday » wispered Kali … It took me exactly 29 years to arrive here… The bus was moving slowly, the road was a little damaged here and there and the bus seemed to have some height sicknes too…

I starred at the sky, taking me back home for a little while…. I was happy to be here….

March 11th

We arrived early in Cochabamba, jumped out of the bus and caught a taxi for Tiquipaya, breakfast at a house coffee shop, cold shower in a stinky bathroom/toilet ever… I almost ran out… had clean it somehow to survive the smell… felt better after the cold shower… Went back in the street… made a bracelet while my friends were busy creating and selling their creation… young  curious students coming by, talking with us….  Woman selling bread on the corner, another one selling delicious beans and cooked grains on the other corner, kid playing online game on the next corner… full blast music behind us… a car explode, some white smoke coming out of the engine… a hummer going by ?!?!? how could it be possible…  woman elegantly dressed with the local outfit, huge skirt, tight long sleeve top, a roundish hat on her head… two breeds falling along her back ended by black pearls decoration… little shoes keeping their small feet tight…

I felt asleep in the park sunbathing… I woke up with Fernanda voice, it was really hot and I was sunburned… and dehydrated… headache… I didn’t felt well… tree womans selling some freshly pressed orange and grapefruit juices…

Two man stopped by while Kali and I were making an earring… Fernanda was dreaming in the grass… the man invited us to their place and we slowly dragged our luggage to their place… a cosy artsy studio, full of memories, woman photo on the wall… an unused blue oven, a TV in the center… a sip of the local corn alcohol… I wasn’t feeling good and decided to leave… tears and sadness leaving my friends… in the taxi to the bus station I felt unsecured and started to think about jumping out of it… I really don’t like taking the taxis alone… they could take me where ever they want… I finally saw the buse and felt way better… he tried to rip me off and change the dealed price… paid him what was arranged… bought my ticket to La Paz and went for a walk outisde… street full of life, outside market, street mini retaurants selling fried chicken… fruits stands, boxes full of panties, a woman selling watermelon in a wheeled barrel…  A man was selling hand made ponchos and hand crafted souvenirs at the bus station… I stopped and bought myself a beautiful poncho, that I would use as a sheet durng my trip… offered him a mango… he was really happy

Back in the bus…  moving on for new horizons but leaving friends behind….

I didn’t sleep very well that night, tight in my seat… Woke up, it was so cold and dark, I had trouble breathing… I walk out slowly, waiting for everyone to get their bags and belongings… I wasn’t in a hurry… No news from Vaimiti about her family living in La Paz… I dropped my luggages in a shop that guard them, 1USD for 14hours… Walked out of the metallic bus station. It was built by one of the Eiffel brother and that’s why it looked so Europeen styled… paintings of indeginous people on a wall… full deep colors… cold face…  I walked down the street, on the other side of the valley the sun is rising in a fully built hill side, red bricks houses filling every centimeter square of the hill… it’s quite a beautiful view.. clouds hesitating, coming and going… slowly uncovering the red brick hill, blue sky touching the tip of the mountain… I sat down in a half circle and had a delicious soup with locals in the street … warmed me up… I laid down on a bench to wtach this special city waking up with the sun… golden rays… Walked to the central park, the Murillo place surrounded by official buildings and  a cathedral… pigeons filling up the empty plazza… I fell asleep in the sun… a policeman woke me up… I jump off the bench and mumble « I’m not sleeping » with a smile… they laugh at me… the park was filled with people… an old man came to sit by me , he was curious and ask me where I was from… if  I was married, invited me to his place, asked me to call me… no news from Vaimiti… Another old man inviting me to lunch, ask me to call me… did I look that lost ??? Hahaha… I watch people for a while and felt tired… I spent the last 4 days  sleeping in bus and needed to settle somehere for a while… I took a room in a very cosy hotel… 10 USD for a night… couldn’t argue… I got my luggage from the train station took a shower, set up my room, put my map up… night  walk to have something to eat and see the night life… table full of chocolate, panties, hats, books, pens all along the pedestral street, you can find everything you need in the street in La Paz, the city is like a giant supermarket own by thousands of people, much better, fun and human than the western type of  supermarket own by one chain… I felt comfortable and really secured…

Last night in La Paz, I went out with Ralph, my cousin Tristan friend who was in La Paz. German restaurant for diner, the most expensive restaurant I went to on my trip, had some beers… visited several bars and ended up in a cocain hidden bar, the 36. Everybodies knows about it but me. We arrived in a street with no light, the taxi driver was lost asking on the radio where the bar could be, we went up and down the street couple of time… « it’s here where the taxis are parked» I said… we stopped,  a man came out in the street, we had to pay for the entrance, pitch dark corridor… I was safe with 3 guys but wondered where I was… dark stair case, metallic doors, another man guarding, a sign on the wall… we quickly entered… a room softly lighten, sofas all around, groups of people here and there, music playing without dancers.. we sat down in the corner… the waiter came and asked us if we wanted to have some cocain…  no but we would take some drinks… I barely drank my glass, I was tired and fell asleep on the sofas… I woke up when they were ready to leave… it was 5am.. Ralph took me to my place, hugs, not knowing when we will meet again… it’s such a weird feeling sometimes to said goodbye when traveling… Not much to say beside letting our destiny choose if we will meet again… I spent four nights in La Paz…

16th of march.

I woke up at 8, 3 hours sleep but felt like I had enough, I was ready to leave… I packed my luggages and took the bus to Copacabana in the lake Titicaca at 3pm… Long tight bus ride… I couldn’t stay awake, I saw flashes of  the beautiful landscape… I was so tired, road trips always put me to sleep… boat ride to the other side of the lake, the bus floating on lake… back in the bus, it’s beautiful, I was happy to be in the countryside, sun, water, flowers, fresh air… Little town with a huge church in the middle of two bays… crosses planted on the top of the middle mountain,  souveniirs stores, bars and restaurant for tourist all along the mainroad… I found a place for 5 USD. It was cheap but a little dirty… had worst thought so I unpacked and went down the street, had a fish plate, delicious, in the street for 1,5 USD and went to sleep… felt lonely that night…

March 17th

The market street was full of old ladies sitting on the side of the road selling their daily harvest, carrots, flowers, potatoes, fish, cheese, bread… it was so beautiful… I bought some bread and watched the people for a little while… walked up towards the crossed hill… helped a woman to carry her foldable table to the feet of the hill where she would sell souvenirs to tourists… I kept on walking  toward the crosses… step by step… slowly… I was breathless… What a challenge… not easy to hike up a hill at 3800 meter above sea level… decided to take another path… walked behind the hill, the view over the lake was splendid… so peaceful, a mirror lake… flowers everywhere, birds flying and singing around me… I laid down… listening to the nature… It’s good to be alone and quiet… listening to our heart… hours passed by, and the temperature rised under the sun… I needed a shelttered place to sleep… I found a shaded space under a huge cliffy rock, a cave,. I laid my pareo down and fell asleep there… the view was amazing and so peacefull, I could be with myself… I woke up around 5 and started to go up the hill to reach the top… not the easiest way to get there, probably one of the hardest but it was exciting, a challenge… I slowly zigzaged up the hill, broken glass bottles everywhere, burned trashed plastic thrown down from the top of the hill… I climb up until the cime and smiled seeing the other side of the lake… it was rewarding… I enjoyed the silence, trying to stay away from the crowd… walked up to the mountain, I had to see these crosses… I was disappointed, an unwelcome place where I wouldn’t have enjoyed my day as much as I did in the other side of the hill… I took some photos and walked back down, on an uncrowded path… stopped there and climbed a nice big rock hanging  there. I felt good being alone… Then a guy appeared, looked around, took photos … after I came down of my rock , he ask me if there was a way down and I invited him to go down with me. He came and we started to talk… David is from Quebec and is also travelling alone… we spend the evening together, had a fish at my street mini roulotte and shopped. It was great being with him and we kind of set a meeting for the next day.

March 18th.

 I wasn’t going to give anymore penny to my hotel managers, they were the most unpleasant people I met in Bolivia… that what happens in many touristy place, and Copacabana  is the most touristy place in Bolivia… I found another hotel and left what I didn’t need for the Isla del sol trip. I walked to the dock, bought a ticket and saw David there, he bought a ticket for the same boat as me… nice boat ride… some common faces were cruising with us…  the island looked desertic, agricultural line everywhere, no trees… not what I imagined… first stop, south point… mini hostels here and there over the hill… water fall, clear transparent water… We got off in the north village… walked thru the little village, tourist trap here and there, « this is the only way get to the south part of the island » I heard a local shop owner said… « Sure  » I told myself… a surprising white sandy beach was hiding behind the houses, we sat on the hot sand burried feet in and enjoyed our watermelon… tourist running toward the touristic path, it was like a mini race… we walked the other way… to where we wanted… no questions, no words… just two people walking side by side letting themself guided by their adventurous mind… crossing barriers where some other ones turned around… walked thru potatoes field, golden flowers fields… the land was cultivated everywhere… beautiful view over the lake… groups of people working on their lands… we helped them working the earth… we loved it, it was such an unique experience being amonsgt them, learning  from them, working with their tools, smelling the earth,  hearing them laughing at us, smiling, touching hearts… we were one…  we left filled with energy… following the shore line… met more people… went around the piece of island… lunch in the village… watching people, laugh… walked to the east side of the island, stomach full, too full , we could barely walk,… crossed hills and bays slowly… donkeys, earth houses, rock paved road,  fushia flowers, kids, woman washing their clothes in the river, donkeys, giant beans plantations, eucalyptus forest, desertic hills, natural psychadelic rock patern… sparkling sand… oversized lemon colored flower… heavy backpack… breathless view… unforgetable hike… we arived exhausted at the south village around 5pm, rent a room with  the most beautiful view over the lake lighten by full moon, snowy Andes on the background… unforgettable and best hike of my trip… Quinoa soup and delicious trout for diner… good night…

March 19th

… rainy day… I felt good and warm in my bed… David left to catch the 8 o’clock boat I stayed in bed, no need to rush…  i’ll catch the 11am one. Had a quinoa soup for breakfast to warm me from the wet walk… I have no shoes, wearing sandals…

Jumped on the cheapest boat ride… arrived in Copacabana and met David on my way to the hostel, we were happy to meet again, we had lunch together and said goodbye when he took his bus to La Paz… 

I walked  around the city and hang out wondering where Kali and Fernanda could be… and Ralph ??? Had some cookie… Fernanda was sitting amongst  the line of backpackers artist in the street… I couldn’t beleive it could be her but when she looked at me, we jumped into each others arms… I sat down, we talked, started to make bracelet… I saw Ralph walking down the street… Talked to him and set a meeting for the night… Kali arrived… I was so happy to be with all my travel friends…  I was feeling lonely an hour earlier and now I was surrounded by my friends…  walking up the street to find a shelter from the upcoming rain, I lost Kali and Fernanda… I went to my room, relaxed and walked out after the rain.. shopped and met Ralph in one of the boutique. I had my street fish plate… drinks here and there all over the town, went to a local party, orchestra playing german melody for Ralph, he is so tall and Bolivian are always amazed since they are so short…  and I went back home around 3am… Another night with Ralph… we didn’t say goodbye but wished to meet couple hours later…

March 20th…

Early wake up, packed and took the bus for La Paz, spent the night there to find out about a bus ride to Chile, last walk around the city…

Marc 21st.

5am, taxi ride to the bus station, bus ticket to Arica, in Chile… 9 euros… best bus ride ever, desertic lands with snowy mountains here and there, like snowy volcanoes grew out of the desert, such a contrast… the scenery was mesmerizing, I couldn’t take my eyes off of it. I felt like my trip was unacheived and I had to come back…

Border crossing, line of trucks… stamps, photos… stupid videos for the trip… desert road  and mountains, stream becoming canyon, life and death, two extreme world  in front of my eyes… ying and yang… the ocean was steaming from waves breaking on the shore… I didn’t like Arica, bought my ticket out to La Serena where my friend Ximena, whom I met in Singapor , was living… Over night trip… woke up surprised by the waves… broken shores… breaking waves… so many memories came back to my mind… Morroco trip… surfing… desert… I arrived in La serena around 3,… jumped in Ximena’s car, I was happy to see her again, she was with Caro, her best friend.

I spent 5 days with them  and had a great time, visiting the region. It’s papaya town, a honey smell variety that has to be cooked to be eatable, vineyards everywhere fin the Elquy valley for pisco liquor, globe grapes vine on the foot of the dryest desertic mountains I ever saw… white sandy beach with turquoise water, surfers running to waves, hotel owned by tahitians on the beach, fish soup, delicious cheese and seafood empanadas, oursin and fresh seafood degustation at the fish market… last beautiful dinner prepared by Ximena, fish salad and sparkling wine… I was overwhelmed… had a great time with the girls… so cool and naturaly beautiful… Left running to the bus… fell asleep smiling…

March 26th

Early arrival to Santiago, i took the metro and a taxi to Paz apartment. She was sleepy but we chatted for an hour… she went back to sleep… I repacked what I left there and had an extra bag now… The shuttle picked me up , a last goodbye and hope to see her this year again… I really want to come back to South america… this was the end of the first part of my trip there. Plane ride over the Andes… sand over the eternal snow… Flat argentinian lands… Rio airport … long walk to the other side of the airport to find out about my next day flight to Imperatriz… « you have to wait tomorrow, 4 hours before the departure to be able to check your luggage in ». I sat down in some lighten chairs… fell asleep watching a movie, waking up every hour to make sure I still had all my luggages. I felt comfi enough with security guards walking by from time to time…

March 27th

I woke up at 6, went up to the counter… you have to go to the other airport… no panic, I had 3 hours… thankfully !!! caught the bus, check in… fell asleep for an hour in the waiting room, took the plane, slept some more… met my uncle Christian  and 3 friends of his in Brasilia airport… took the plane , felt asleep… arrived in Imperatriz.. it smells familiar, trees everywhere, hot humid mb in the overcrowded luggage room… walked out with Christtiian, met Diego, his brazilian son… Toyota  trucks ride, body guard driving… I felt like I was in a movie… 5 hours drive to the fazenda… dirt road going nowhere, transamazonian road… baby aligators running away… shyly lighten house, cooked earth houses, hammoc as a bed… out of nowhere, a huge perfectly softly lighten screened house… our place… I couldn’t beleived my eyes, I was really in a movie, the house was perfectly decorated, Marcia, Christian’s brazilian wife welcomed us… hotel styled room, I was dreaming and so happy… I felt like a princess in the jungle… delicious fish for dinner… every details were there to make us feel like home… I was in love with the place...

March 28th…

Shower, breakfast brigthly colored parrots… a joy to my eyes… and the forever dreamed horse ride. I’ve been dreaming for horse ride for  a very long time, it was a cherry on the cake… I didn’t want to leave the fazenda anymore… I wanted to stay here for months and ride horses everyday… I quickly got comfi on my chosen horse, Parao… memories from my childhood came to my mind… I used to ride horses every Sunday with my neighbour but always had to share it… my dream was to have one of my own and ride freely with it… living the dream… smiling face, We roode thru forest, grass hills, view over the river, bleu, orange, red butterflies dancing around us… goyava, lemon.. it’s hot and humid but I could careless… every colored animal, flower was a joy to my eyes, like a treasure in a greenfield….

Galoping back home, swim in the river… delicious colourfull and flavorfull meal… life is hard…. Car ride along the 10000 ha proprety… caipirinhia with Christian, Mandfried, Kurt and Hasso… Another beautiful evening,….

March 29th…

I wished I could stopped the days going by…  delicious breakfast and the longest horse ride I ever had with a full party of friend, all cowboys… We slowly crossed forest, rivers, went over hills, cliffy mountains, dense jungle to sandy forest, tired horses, pouring rain, over the forest, it was beautiful… 5 hours horse riding, I arrived to the fazenda galoping, Parao was tired… I took care of him, gave him a shower and let him free… took a shower, chicken curry lunch, mousse au fruits de la passion for desert… relaxed, went for a swim in the river with a butterfly, took some sun… wrote about my beautiful holidays with caipirinhia serve at bed… que veut le monde ! ha ! endless conversation around some wine and feasty dinner…. Life is what we choose it to be…