Saturday, May 5, 2012

First day of surf

I woke up early this morning, I knew the right swell for my coast hit last night and I prepare my surfboard, my kayak ,mask and fin and drove along the coast to look for the best spot. I kayaked out, I was alone, the waves were glassy, I can explain how excited and happy I was. I looked back and saw one of the most beautiful view I’ve seen from a surf spot, thousands of water falls going on and off here and there. I caught my first wave and a black tip shark came to welcome me there, dolphins were swimmig out on the ocean, a leopard ray surf a wave…  the water felt so good, I wish I could live underwater sometime. When I’m underwater, I feel like one with the ocean… It’s one of my favorite place to be…

I surfed all morning by myself, I love the silence, hearing the water moving, my heart beat thru my whole body, feeling alive. Surfing taught me patience, I follow the ocean and respect her. A rainbow over the waterfalls wall reflect herself in the lagoon, sharing her beauty with the coral garden... back home Pumpkin was waiting for me, I think we human are a little like cats, we complain only when there is someone to hear it...

Full moon rising over the lagoon surprises me on my balcony... I'm gratefull for my life and I wouldn't want to do anything else than what I'm doing right now.

I hope you also found happiness and love within you

Love :)

View from the water on the property and more...
From the water with the house behind

The entrance

My veggie garden sprouting

Long green beans, they were the fastest to grow...



Sunshine papaya juice

Sunrise at the house

Cooking one of my favorite food, breadfruit.

1 comment:

  1. someday I wanna go underwater and say Kia ora to all your friends and you. have fun, i'll look forward to the next beautiful images, my friend. D